Wynand Fockink Rum Punch?

August 15, 2011

Andrew Nicholls Wynand Fockink Rum Punch , , , 1 Comment

Decanted Wynand Fockink Rum Punch

I entered Wynand Fockink armed with a little bottle of Nestle Pure Life Purified Water, filled not with it’s original content, but rather with a sample of Rum Punch decanted for me a my State side friend; Jake Parrott.

Just over three weeks ago we were in New Orleans for Tales of the Cocktail and Jake (in true Jake style) whipped out this gem of a bottle, possibly dating to around 1917. The content was black and had the consistency of a runny syrup and had been open for just under a week (cork was well preserved), but was pretty oxidized. That aside, it was still full of “punch” and on the nose had pronounced notes of Pedro Ximinex Sherry, plumbs, vanilla and dancing all around them was the ever present character of Rum.

The palate was as the nose suggested, oxidized notes of plum, raisin, vanilla and Dutch pancake syrup. Its texture was thick and and certainly lingered. The aftertaste went right back to full bodied notes of vanilla, plumb, rum and more of a molasses note than Dutch Pancake Syrup.

Jake had given me sample to bring back to Amsterdam and ask the guys at WF if they could shed any light on the origin, recipe or lets be honest, any information they could share. I was fairly hopeful they would have something…

The Outside of Wynand Fockink

A tall gentleman made his way down the stairs, shook my hand, tasted the Rum Punch and simply stated, “Thats interesting, but we have no information on it.”

I was sure there must be something so probed a little further and eventually he agreed to check the archives upstairs. On returning, he had three, beautifully hand written books filled with recipes from the 1800‘s, none of which were a recipe to our now mysterious Rum Punch.

We did find a note stating how WF prepared their rum for use in various products such as the Punch. Rum was purchased from the Caribbean and redistilled at WF, relieving the liquid gold of many of the unwanted heads and tails. Much of the rum back then was harsh to say the least so I can see why this would have been necessary to achieve a balanced product. The gentleman from WF then went on to tell me that he couldn’t be 100% sure that this rum would have come from the Caribbean due to the fact that Batavian style Arrack was prominent at that time as well. He then went on to say that if it was rum from the Caribbean, he would have no idea which part, because they imported from all over the Caribbean.

Wynand Fockink Rum Punch (circa 1917)

Based on my tasting, I don’t think the main ingredient was Batavia Arrack, but what I think may have happened is rum was imported from the Caribbean (I don’t think it was French Rhum), distilled again at WF, infused with plumbs and vanilla and colored with molasses or a very raw form of syrup. It’s worth pointing out that a small piece of the decrepit label shows reference to American Law so was clearly intended for the American market.

Apparently Bols owned WF in the 1950’s so I’ve asked if they can check their archives to see if anything pops up. Hopefully they will…

All in all, we right back at the start. We still know very little about Wynand Fockink Rum Punch…

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Wynand Fockink, Amsterdam

February 25, 2011

Andrew Nicholls Wynand Fockink , , , , , , Leave a comment

Looking in at Wynand Fockink

Located down a side street adjacent to Amsterdam’s Dam Square is a true imbibers gem.

Wynand Fockink is so much more than what meets the eye. The average person might stumble on this tiny watering hole, look through its window, chat about how cute it looks and then walk on without realizing what they’re leaving behind.

To cross the threshold here is a bit like falling through Alice’s rabbit hole. Established in 1679, the crew at Wynand Fockink still do things the way they were done all those centuries ago.

Way back then, many of Amsterdam’s bars were actually distilleries with a tasting room and a shop attached. Given the success of the Dutch East Indies Trading Company (VOC), Amsterdam was also a hot spot for exotic fruits, herbs and spices. Put the success of the VOC and an in-house distillation program together and  you have the makings for some pretty special Liqueurs. The Dutch have long been credited as the creators of Liqueurs, with sons like Lucas Bols producing them as early as 1575 in a distillery called ‘t Lootsje (Little Shed).

Distilling Equipment at Wynand Fockink, Amsterdam

At Wynand Fockink they still produce their own Jenever (Genever), Liqueurs and Tinctures.

The still in picture is in a large room next to the bar and scttered around the same room are large glass vessels containing fruits and spices for liqueurs and tinctures.

For those not too familier with Jenever (Genever), I will briefly describe it as a wonderful spirit, produced in Holland, Belgium, two French Provinces and two Federal German States. Jenever comprises of malt and grain distillate and is subtly flavored with botanicals such as juniper berries. Some in the English speaking world refere to Jenever as Dutch Gin, but to be honest, it tastes more like a subtle, aromatic whisky than a gin.

Rows of Liqueurs and Tinctures in the Making

Some of the Liqueurs infuse for a year before being moved all 15 meters to the bar where eager patrons eagerly await their arrival.

Drinking here feels a bit like claiming your little piece of history. In a weird way, you feel comforted by the fact that some bars still believe in continuing crafts and traditions of the past, regardless of what marketeers and pencil pushers claim is future of an industry they generally know so little about. I’ve had plenty of conversations with corporate people who claim that unless a bar looks and feels 21st century, it won’t work in the 21st century.

Bars work because they provide an experience and a sound level of service. A great experience will last the test of time, while fancy coat of paint on the walls will last as long as that coat.

Wynant Fockink was established in 1679 and I sincerely hope it’ll be around for the next 332 years, reminding us that sometimes simply doing the basics well will always see the light of a new day.

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